Mal-Aimée is actually a fashion brand, and there’s plenty to love… clothing made in France, attention to detail, young designers, interesting cuts, and a style identity that expresses itself from one season to the next.
This is not your mass-market brand, and thank goodness for that. It’s a youthful brand, and could use a little boosting from the fashion community in Paris for the designers are dedicated to a true search for quality, inspiration and style.
I was glad to see Jean Paul Cauvin at the presentation on March 8th 2011 at the palace hotel Le Crillon, as e was last season. I got up the nerve to approach him and ask him a few questions, and found and affirmation of my assumptions that he is a journalist who prefers to preoccupy himself with fashion designers who are more in the search of quality of design and product than with designers who are out to make a sensation for a few years for profit. He’s my kinda fashion journalist!!!
Concerning the collection, there’s similar cits from last season, but with a lot more “daring”, and a more seasonal approach to material. Although I do find though that the articles tend to be out-of-season (shorts); but this is not the first brand I have seen do this for Fall and Winter collections this year.
Half the fun of fashion week is seeing all the fashionistas and cavaliers strutting around. Some take themselves VERY seriously, some don’t have a serious hair on their head, but 100% of them are fabulous to look at. And fashion week is a sort of oggle yourself silly free-for-all, where anything goes!
Jean Paul CAUVIN
Comment if you have names for me!
Mal Aimée a brand by Léonie Hostettler and Marius Borgeaud who met at design university in Geneva had their first Paris presentation at the recent Paris Fashion Week, on October 4th. Hosted at the luxury palace hotel Le Crillon, the label occupied a chandelier ornamented room on the ground floor. I was glad to see Jean Paul Cauvin present, and visiting the smaller lesser known brands in his search for the 21st century’s silhouette.
Marius Borgeaud and Léonie Hostettler (picture from Kevin Tachman of Vogue.com)
Mal Aimée served up a spread of garments with an emphasis on texture and lines, with color as a side dish. Sheer rayons, raw-weaved or embroidered wools, thicker silk pieces with elaborate stitching,beading and a mixture of different materials in single pieces was the texture palette. The lines wear a combination of body-lengthening shapes, a twist on the holed knees, elaborate pant cuffs, broad shoulders and coat tails for starters. Sweet pastels and faded denim along with fitted waistlines bring out a lot of femininity in this already lady-like line.
Mal Aimée, SS2011
Mal Aimée SS201
I personally loved the elaborate folds on the shoulders, the tight overlay-stitching, the silk pants and the leotard shirts. There’s a sophisticated 70’s-80’s feel to the line without pushing towards the obnoxious aspect of that era. It’s strong yet feminine.
The pair of designers worked for a couple years with Olivier Theyskens at the fashion house of Nina Ricci, before being left to fend for themselves after his departure from the label. Not without gumption the two launched their own label. This SS2011 line is the fruit of a year’s worth of constant work to create a name for themselves. They are doing it well with a sumptuous presentation at one of the most frequented spots in Paris during Fashion week. Best of luck to these two young designers and we can’t wait to see the fall-winter line!