Luis Buchinho AW14 Fashion and Illusion

Paris Fashion Week AW14

Post by Paul Waters

PaulWaters

It’s a Monday evening and I am standing in line at the Icram center a space more commonly used for music and performing arts, it also forms part of the Centre Pompidou complex. For those of you who don’t know the Centre Pompidou is a very controversial building in Paris that houses and hosts modern art and exhibitions on a yearly basis. It seems a very unlikely venue for a fashion show with its cold white walls, concrete floors and industrial feel. But there I stand clutching my ticket to Luis Buchinho’s show being slowly led by the crowds into the foyer of just such a building. The room is buzzing with excitement fashion lovers appear to be adorned with their most, craziest yet stylish of outfits. Jewels and sequins, textures and colors seem to set the cold room on fire when a set of doors swing open and we are led down into the depths of Paris. Continue reading

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Luis Buchinho AW13/14

Luis Buchinho FW1314 from Prete Moi Paris on Vimeo.

I was so thrilled to interview Mr Buchinho for my pal Ko Kok (on camera). I did find his diversion from his usual calming colors, towards something much more violent (as far as colors go) completely enthralling. I loved his use of very striking lines and shapes as will as the contrasting hues. I have truly enjoyed watching his collections evolve over the seasons, and hope to continue to see them shown in Paris for years to come.

I find him to be not only quite a talented designer, but also a thoughtful artist and a very approachable gentleman.

The collection was inspired by the revolution in Portugal in the 1970’s. What do you all think of these vibrant (and violent) red hues for next Fall season?

(All the following photos are by henripostant)

Luis Buchinho SS13

Luis Buchinho focuses his Spring 2013 collection on an idea of duality and modern timelessness.

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Fall 2012 Fashion Trends

Here are some of the trends off the runways for the Fall/Winter fashion 2012-2013 collections as selected by moi :

LACE, VELVET & RETRO NOSTALGIA

Designer : Anne Valérie Hash; Model : Dorothea Barth Jorgensen; Photo : Style.com

Continue reading

Luis Buchinho AW1213 #PFW

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Model Kelsey Close, after the show.

The Luis Buchinho show was lovely and full of klein blues and grays, black and white with plenty of play on texture, cut and color blocking with this simple yet complex palette. Buchinho was inspired by hos memories, the streets and the ocean views, the salty air of Portugal for this breezy collection full of movement and plays on shadow and light with graphic lines and slender cuts.

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Luis Buchinho

Silk dresses, leather accents, slim pants in printed silk, knit dresses, ample coats, mini shorts… with so much technique in this collection, it was nice to have the palette focused on a limited combination of colors that really allowed the design to come out with the contrasting colors and fabric variations. The cuts are slim or ample yet don’t make the female body look like it’s been taken out of focus, they flow with the movement of the body. This is no collection for any classic yesteryear woman. Au contraire…. there are some SHORT shorts in this collections and some leggings that would make our mothers blush. I think Luis likes legs. Additionally, his design is ultra modern regardless of it’s old-city inspiration.

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Model : Kelsey Close

His beautiful prints are inspired by the cobble stone streets of Portugal, and although he likes his women sensual, he would like them to be all-terrain so they can trek around the old cities of this warm and colorful country that has so inspired his creativity.

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Luis Buchinho’s African seams

Luis Buchinho showed his Spring/Summer 2011 collection in Paris yesterday at the famed Lycée Henri IV in Just north of Paris’ Latin quarter at the top of the Mont Sainte Geneviève. The soft colors of the library setting and the terracotta tile flooring blended harmoniously with the palette chosen by Buchino for his collection. Inspired by a soft African landscape each piece plays with texture, movement and asymmetry. Organic materials (washed silks, cotton tweeds, smooth and soft leathers), that feel good on the skin flowed easily, models sashayed down the runway in feminine heels occasionally tufted with fur.

Luis Buchinho S/S2011 Paris

Especially interesting were the mélanges of fabrics used in some pieces, the use of lights and darks, and the soft folds that were hung asymmetrically and gives a freedom to the female body that traditional waist-cinching styles don’t do, yet the femininity remains intact in this very wearable collection.

Next spring certainly has a warm desert feel.

Luis Buchino S/S2011 Paris

Luis Buchinho S/S2011 Paris

Luis Buchinho S/S2011 Paris